The aptly designated No. 1 is indisputably the best of Gullane's three courses. The site, extending from the clubhouse around and over a large rise to the Firth of Forth beyond does not seem especially promising at the outset. Once the first few holes have led you up the rise, however, you find yourself playing some breathtaking golf, with a panoramic vista across the Firth to Fife, Muirfield to the east and, when the air is clear, Edinburgh in the other direction. With such open country, on the other hand, comes exposure to the gusts off the shore. The earliest layouts were built well over a century ago by pioneering architects whose names are lost to time. As on the oldest courses, the greens are pretty much just carefully manicured patches at the end of the fairways. The bunkers have real teeth, and the unkempt fescue rough also deserves respect.